Bernese Mountain Grooming

Bernese Mountain Dog Grooming: Managing the Double Coat

The Bernese Mountain Dog possesses a beautiful, thick double coat that is moderately long, requiring regular and consistent grooming to stay healthy, clean, and comfortable. Their coat is designed to protect them from the harsh, cold weather of the Swiss Alps, which means managing shedding is a key component of their care.

Understanding the Bernese Coat

The Bernese Mountain Dog’s coat is one of its most defining and beautiful features, but it’s first and foremost a functional tool. It is a classic double coat, perfectly engineered for its original purpose: to protect the dog in the cold, snowy conditions of the Swiss Alps.

 
 

 

  • 2. Color and Markings

    The Berner’s coat is instantly recognizable by its striking tri-color pattern:

     

    • Jet Black as the primary ground color.

       

    • Clear White markings typically found on the chest (forming the “Swiss Cross”), the tip of the tail, the feet, and as a muzzle band/blaze on the face.

       

    • Rich Rust/Tan (or dark reddish-brown) markings strategically placed over each eye, on the cheeks, and on the legs, separating the black from the white.

       

    3. Shedding: The Seasonal Cycle

    Because they have a dense undercoat designed for harsh weather, Berners shed year-round, but this shedding escalates dramatically twice a year in what is known as “blowing coat” or molting.

     

    • Seasonal Sheds: They shed their heavy winter undercoat in the spring to prepare for warmer temperatures, and they shed their lighter summer coat in the fall to make way for a denser winter coat. This period requires daily brushing to manage the volume of loose fur.

       
       

    • Year-Round Shedding: Even outside of the major seasonal change, they are moderate shedders. Regular brushing is necessary to contain the loose hair that would otherwise end up on your floors and furniture.

       
       

    4. Critical Coat Care Warning: Never Shave

    Unless specifically advised by a veterinarian for a medical reason, you should never shave a Bernese Mountain Dog or any other double-coated breed. Shaving is counterproductive and harmful:

    • Ruin Insulation: Shaving removes both the cooling and warming mechanisms, making the dog more susceptible to overheating and sunburn in the summer.

       

    • Damage Regrowth: It can permanently damage the hair follicles, causing the coat to grow back incorrectly—often patchy, cottony, or rough—and losing its protective, weather-resistant qualities.

       

    • Sunburn Risk: It exposes the sensitive skin to harmful UV rays.

    Your Bernese Mountain Grooming Routine

1. Brushing: Your First Line of Defense
This is the most critical part of Aussie grooming.

  • Frequency: 2-3 times per week is ideal for preventing mats and managing shedding. During heavy shedding seasons (spring and fall), daily brushing may be necessary.

  • Tools:

    • Undercoat Rake: Essential for reaching and removing the dense, dead undercoat without harming the topcoat.

    • Slicker Brush: Perfect for detangling the longer fur on the mane, chest, and “pants” (back legs).

    • Pin Brush or Comb: Good for a final once-over to smooth the topcoat and ensure no small tangles are left.

  • Technique: Brush in sections, all the way down to the skin. Be gentle around sensitive areas like the belly and behind the ears. Pay extra attention to the feathered areas on the legs, chest, and breeches, as these are prone to matting.

2. Bathing: As Needed, But Done Right
Aussies generally do not need frequent baths, as over-bathing can strip their coat of natural oils.

  • Frequency: Every 4-6 weeks, or when they get noticeably dirty or smelly.

  • Process:

    1. Brush Thoroughly First: Never bathe a matted coat, as it will make the mats tighter and worse.

    2. Use a High-Quality Dog Shampoo: Opt for a gentle, moisturizing formula. A conditioner designed for double-coated breeds can help keep the coat soft and manageable.

    3. Rinse Extensively: Any leftover shampoo residue can irritate the skin.

    4. Dry Thoroughly: Use a high-velocity dog dryer (on a cool setting) to blow out the loose undercoat. If you don’t have one, towel dry vigorously and ensure they are completely dry to prevent hot spots.

3. The “Big Shed”: Blowing the Coat
Twice a year, you will witness the “coat blow.” The undercoat comes out in large clumps. This is not a sign of poor health—it’s completely normal!

  • Your Best Friend: The undercoat rake and a high-velocity dryer are lifesavers during this time. The dryer can powerfully blow out huge amounts of dead undercoat before you even start brushing.

4. Beyond the Coat: Essential Maintenance

  • Nails: Trim every 2-4 weeks. Long nails can affect their gait and be painful.

  • Ears: Check and clean weekly with a vet-approved ear cleaner to prevent infections, especially if your Aussie loves to swim.

  • Teeth: Brush several times a week (or ideally daily) with dog-specific toothpaste to prevent tartar buildup and periodontal disease.

  • Paw Pads: Check for debris and trim the fur between the paw pads to improve traction and prevent matting.

The Bernese Grooming Foundation: Essential Tools and Technique

The foundation of successful Bernese Mountain Dog grooming is using the right tools in the right way to manage their dense, insulating double coat.1 Without this foundation, the coat can quickly develop matting, become compacted with dead fur, and lead to skin issues.2

 
 

Here are the essential tools and the fundamental technique:

1. The Essential Tool Kit

You will need a minimum of three specific tools to effectively maintain a Berner’s coat:

Tool Purpose Key Use
Undercoat Rake CRITICAL for shedding. Removes the deep, soft, dead undercoat without cutting the guard hairs. This is your primary deshedding tool, especially during seasonal “coat blows.” Use weekly, or daily during shedding season, in long strokes that follow the hair growth.
Slicker Brush Primary tool for dematting and coat preparation. Removes loose hair from both layers and breaks up small tangles. Use 2–3 times per week. Use a light touch to avoid scratching the skin with the fine wire pins.
Long-Toothed Steel Comb The final check. Used to ensure the coat is completely free of tangles and knots, especially in problem areas. Use after brushing to check specific areas like behind the ears, under the legs, and the tail. If the comb stops, go back with the slicker brush.
Optional: Pin Brush Good for general, day-to-day light maintenance and smoothing out the topcoat for a finished, glossy look. Use daily for a quick once-over to remove surface debris.

2. The Foundation Technique: Line Brushing3

You cannot simply brush over the topcoat and expect to reach the dense undercoat. You must use a technique called line brushing or section brushing to ensure you penetrate both layers.

  1. Section the Coat: Start with the dog lying down or standing comfortably. Begin grooming at the bottom of the dog (e.g., a leg or the flank).

  2. Part the Hair: Using your non-brushing hand, part the hair horizontally to expose the skin and undercoat below the guard hairs.

  3. Brush in Layers: Use the Undercoat Rake or Slicker Brush to brush the exposed layer of hair outward from the skin. Once you can easily brush that section, part a new line of hair just above it.

  4. Work Upward: Continue this process, working systematically upward, section by section, across the entire body (legs, sides, back, ruff, and tail).4 This ensures you remove all the trapped, dead undercoat.

     

  5. The Comb Check: After brushing a large section, follow up with the Steel Comb.5 If the comb can glide smoothly through the hair from root to tip, you know the section is truly tangle-free.6

     
     

3. Focus on Mat-Prone Areas

 

Pay special attention to these spots, where friction causes hair to compress and mat quickly:

  • Behind the Ears: The hair here is soft and fine, tangling easily.7

     

  • Armpits and Under the Legs (“Pants”): Friction from walking and lying down causes heavy matting.

  • The Ruff (Neck): Where the collar rubs and the hair is very thick.